A Conversation with Mati Pichci of Amator, Copenhagen

To introduce Hearth, OWIU Goods connected with Mati Pichci, chef and founder of Amator, a home dining space in Copenhagen where the collection's launch campaign was photographed. With its intimate setting and thoughtful approach to food and hospitality, Amator provided a natural backdrop for Hearth, bringing the objects into the everyday rituals of cooking, sharing and gathering.

We spoke with Mati about his journey, the ideas behind Amator and the small details that make a place feel like home.

You started your career in advertising. How did cooking become part of your life, and what eventually brought you to Copenhagen?

Indeed, my first career was in advertising. Cooking was a passion project, a side job. That's how Mati Pichci emerged. My actual name is Mateusz Sarnowski, and Mati Pichci means "Mati cooks" in Polish. What used to be my alter ego became my new life. Long story short, Copenhagen had the best restaurant in the world at the time, and a stage at Noma was the reason to move here. The rest is history.

Was there a person, place or experience that shaped how you think about food and hospitality?

My Polish grandmothers were the first to pop into my head. As a child, you take it for granted that grandmas cook delicious, perfectly seasoned food, serving it with an open heart, deep care and full attention. Looking back, I find that to be the most genuine form of hospitality. That is the way I always try to approach our guests.

What kind of place did you imagine Amator would be? Has that vision changed since opening?

Amator is a home dining place. Cozy and very intimate. Limited space could be a flaw, but I imagined it as an advantage to create a special energy around our communal table. And it worked out so perfectly!

You describe Amator as a "home dining place". What does that mean to you, and how do you want guests to feel?

We serve breakfast and lunch daily. Evenings are for special occasions and branded events. The lighting is very limited, but that makes it extra cozy with a row of candles and the special warm light they create.

How would you describe your approach to cooking? Is there a dish that captures it particularly well?

Some years ago, I visited Masseria Moroseta, where the head chef, Giorgia, described their food as "great produce, well dressed." That's how I see what we do. We always start with the best available raw material and add just a little touch to make it shine. Sometimes salt, olive oil or lemon juice is enough. Our summer tomato dish is dressed with shallots pickled in cherry blossom and basil. For darker months, we serve sautéed greens with garlic and goat cheese or beans in a rich saffron sauce made with a generous amount of caramelized onion and garlic. Our omelets are also very simple because we see them as naked dishes showcasing the quality of eggs we source.

At Amator, food, furniture, lighting and music all contribute to the atmosphere. How do you bring these elements together? Is there a detail that matters to you but might go unnoticed?

Yes, for me, it is all about a perfect dance of all those elements. One crucial aspect that some people might not consciously notice but would feel right away is the acoustics of the space. Together with wiercinski-studio, which designed the interior at Amator, and Arda Audio, which is responsible for the sound system, we designed the space with the intention of making it sound good. Good music without good acoustics is like a talented musician without an instrument to play. We have a lot of soundproofing panels, some of them hidden behind the wall curtains, to make sure that the space feels soft and there is always room for comfortable conversation and fairly loud music.

How important are the objects and tools you use at Amator? Is there one you're particularly attached to?

I love surrounding myself with beautiful objects, though beauty is a very subjective concept. The first thing I got for Amator, before the renovation even started, was a set of stainless steel cutlery designed by Erik Magnussen for Stelton. I can't imagine Amator without them.

Music plays an important role at Amator. How do you choose what to play? What have you been listening to lately?

Music defines the space. We play various genres and it all depends on our mood. We always try to find something warm and pleasant, but we dare to give it an edge. Recently, we've been playing Wonder, Wander by I Am An Instrument and Forfolks by Jeff Parker a lot. We have three albums by Hiroshi Yoshimura and a great bunch of jazz champions like John Coltrane, Miles Davis, Chet Baker and Bill Evans. Those are my definite favorites.

Is there a meal or gathering that has stayed with you over the years? What made it special?

Many years ago, I sailed with a group of friends to a small, secluded island off the Italian coast called Ventotene. There, we visited a permaculture farm called Cinque Tomoli and had a lovely lunch with their produce. Nothing fancy, but with a strong sense of genius loci, beautiful simplicity and that lovely table in the shade overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.